CBD products come in different delivery types (such as oils, gummies, capsules) and different compound ranges (the compounds extracted from the cannabis plant): full-spectrum, broad-spectrum, and isolates. The article deals with the difference between the compound types.
The bottom line, for you the reader, is whether, or not you want to administer any THC to your dogs, and which type of CBD product would be best.
Full Spectrum CBD Oil
Full-Spectrum includes all compounds naturally found in the cannabis plant, including CBD, terpenes, essential oils, and other cannabinoids, including THC. (Under the 2018 Farm Bill, which made CBD purchase legal at a federal level, full-spectrum products are legal if they contain less than 0.3% THC.)
Broad Spectrum CBD Oil
Broad-Spectrum, which are created by extracting cannabinoids from the plant and refining the product until it contains only the specific compounds desired) includes a similarly wide range of cannabinoids, but WITHOUT THC.
CBD Isolates takes the refinement process even further – distilling the product to the purest form of CBD by removing all non-CBD compounds naturally found in the plant, including THC, terpenes, flavonoids, plant parts and other cannabinoids.
Which CBD Oil Product Is Best?
The answer to which product is better depends on your dog’s needs and your preferences.
Although it was once thought that isolates represented the most potent form of CBD treatment, that theory was refuted by a 2015 study that found full-spectrum CBD provided higher relief effects within the body.
Entourage Effect CBD Oil
Another important consideration is the “Entourage Effect,” which is a beneficial effect found with both full-spectrum and broad-spectrum CBD products, in which studies found that the blend of multiple cannabinoids magnify the effect of one another when combined.
Can CBD Oil Get Your Dog High?
Another point of consideration in choosing which product to use is the fear of overdosing or giving your dog a psychoactive “high” effect from too much THC. Products that contain less than 0.3% THC should not produce the unwanted effect within dogs.
However, it remains a question as to whether the production process used by some CBD suppliers is precise enough to ensure that the THC concentrations remain consistently below the legal threshold.
Until there is more consistent quality control in this area, sticking with broad-spectrum products is the best way to assure yourself that a CBD product might not inadvertently get your dog high.
For best results, consult the retailer about your dog’s individual needs and your preferences/concerns before purchasing any CBD product for your dog.
If you’re new to cats, you might think this condition involves worms, but actually, nothing could be farther from the truth – it’s a common skin infection caused by a fungus that lives on the dead tissues of skin and hair. This dead tissue is completely normal and happens all the time in animals as well as humans.
Ringworm is highly contagious and can be passed from animals to humans. You can catch it by touching an infected person or animal. You can also catch it by touching objects or surfaces that had contact with the infected animal such as towels, blankets, carpets and grooming supplies. So the answer to the question, “Can I get ringworm from my cat?” is a resounding “YES!”
Ringworm in cats is usually seen on the skin around the face, ears, chest, forelegs and along the ridge of the back. It results in itchy, scaly and reddened skin, as well as bald spots, and often looks like a red, hairless patch in the form of a ring (hence the name).
Cat Ringworm Facts
Ringworm can affect all kind of animals, including dogs, cats, cows, goats, pigs, rabbits, birds, guinea pigs and horses. But cats tend to get ringworm more often than dogs do, possibly because cats carry the spores for a longer time than dogs do and that enables the infection to take hold.
Studies have shown that up to 13% of human ringworm infections are triggered by an organism that commonly causes ringworm in cats. And in as many as 70% of households, where a cat has ringworm, at least one person will probably catch the infection. Children and elderly people tend to be most susceptible due to weaker or compromised immune systems.
Itchy skin is a first symptom. Once you get infected it often takes from 4-14 days to start itching.
Ringworm spores can survive in the environment for up to 18 months – so you’ll need to clean everything thoroughly if you get a case in your home.
How To Identify Cat Ringworm
While ringworm usually causes raised, circular areas that are crusted over and hairless, or simply, round hairless areas, quite often infected cats (especially long-haired cats) don’t reveal any such symptoms. That makes it harder to detect.
But look for scaly dandruff, darkened or red, irritated skin, poor hair coat or hair loss, and itchiness. You may also see raised or rounded lesions or boils that can ooze. And there may also be inflammation of the folds of skin around the nail, or a whitish, opaque appearance of the claw.
Cat Ringworm Treatment Options
The fungus infection sometimes goes away on its own – but, who wants to take the chance of spreading it?
If you suspect your cat or ANYONE in your household has ringworm, get it properly diagnosed by a vet (for your animals) or a doctor (for your family members). The medical professional will provide recommendations for treatment, which is normally done with anti-fungal cream or pills.
How To Deal With Ringworm
Clean up the environment as thoroughly as you can. Wash all surfaces, linens, cat toys; disinfect grooming brushes/combs and bedding, etc. Use bleach as much as possible but for areas such as carpet or furniture, a solution of apple cider vinegar does a fine job.
Keep her isolated in a room if possible until the infection is gone.
Banixx Pet Care has tremendous anti-fungal properties and has been used successfully in treating ringworm in cats and kittens. It creates an environment that kills the ringworm fungus, while providing soothing relief for any itchiness or secondary infections caused by excessive scratching, and it does not stain or discolor fur, fabric or skin.
How To Use Banixx To Treat Cat Ringworm
Use disposable gloves while you’re applying Banixx so that you don’t get infected.
Using very light pressure, gently pat Banixx on the affected area of your kitten or cat’s ringworm. A cotton ball soaked (but not dripping) in Banixx is generally a good approach. This may be done two to three times daily for the duration of the infection.
To prevent the spread of this infection, immediately dispose of the gloves.
Every dog owner has, at some point, wondered: “Why does my dog eat grass?” Dogs do it all the time (and so do some cats). Additional questions might be: “Why does my dog vomit after eating grass? Is he sick?”
In fact, eating grass is relatively common among dogs, and some do it regularly as part of their daily routine. Most veterinarians consider it to be normal dog behavior. It is considered a minor disorder known as “pica,” or the desire to eat things that aren’t food, such as grass.
The majority of dogs who eat grass aren’t sick beforehand and don’t vomit afterwards. In fact, dogs vomit in less than 25% of cases.
So: is this normal or not? Is something wrong with your dog that he eats so much grass? And, what should you do about it?
Top 7 Reasons Why Dogs Eat Grass
Your dog’s tummy is upset. If your dog’s stomach is bothering him, he may eat grass to induce vomiting and get relief. The grass blades tickle his throat and stomach lining and cause him to gag and throw up. If he eats grass to vomit occasionally, there’s probably no reason to worry. But if it happens often or if he eats an excessive amount of grass in a frenzy, it could be a sign of that he has a more serious medical problem such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease, or pancreatitis that should be looked at by a vet.
Your dog’s diet is deficient. When a dog starts eating grass, vets believe she could instinctively be trying to get key nutrients and/or fiber that are missing in her diet. Dogs need vitamins, minerals and roughage just like we do. Dogs are highly instinctive and may seek out what their body needs (just like not eating when their body should not have an additional load on her system – but that is another topic). Even though dogs are carnivores their bodies still require roughage which vegetation can provide. In the wild carnivores often eat berries and other vegetation to supplement their diet. Double-check the ingredients / type of food you feed her – it may be time for a switch to a higher quality diet.
She likes the taste of grass. To her, it’s as good as a doggie treat! If this is the case, there’s no need to worry. New grass growth, the little sprouts coming up, may be flavorful to your dog. However, where is she eating the grass? Is it at the park or the neighbor’s yard? Those areas may be treated with chemicals (mosquito treatment, weed treatment, chemical greening, etc.) and those chemicals can be harmful to your dog. In your own yard make sure you stay away from chemical-based pesticides and fertilizers, which you don’t want her ingesting along with the delectable green stuff. If you need to treat your yard select products that are more naturally based and, leave the area where you allow your dog to be, untreated, especially if you are not able to monitor her all the time in that space.
Your dog is bored. It’s a little like what we do when weare bored – we raid the refrigerator. If your dog is outside most of the day with nothing to do, he may resort to grazing as a way to pass the time. Puppies and young dogs get bored more easily and need to find some way to expend all that energy – so they turn to eating grass (or other items). More exercise, more play, more grooming, more toys, more doggie playgrounds may be part of your solution.
He might be trying to get your attention. Your dog may feel lonely and crave your attention – and may resort to eating grass and vomiting just to get you to spend more time with him. Do more with your dog – take him for walks, play a little, brush/groom him, and pet a lot. Teaching him a new trick may stimulate him enough to leave the grass or reduce his grass eating. If you are unable to take your dog for a long walk, then go for a few short walks.
She might be anxious. If your dog shows signs of anxiety or nervousness, eating grass could be a form of comfort mechanism (the same way we eat chocolate when we’re feeling those emotions). You can try giving her an old tee-shirt with your scent on it, or a new toy to distract her attention. To prepare the tee-shirt sleep in it one or two nights, that will really get your scent on the shirt, and your scent can be a very comforting item for your dog. Also, dogs like routine so be consistent with walks and time together, and your dog is likely to be less anxious.
He’s following his instincts. In the wild, dogs are scavengers – they eat the meat they kill, including any grass and plants that may have been in the prey’s stomach. They instinctively eat anything that provides their basic dietary requirements. Your dog, of course, probably gets all those things through commercially-available dog food – but the instinct to eat grass and plants is still there.
Should I Stop My Dog From Eating Grass?
Most veterinarians agree that eating grass is a behavior issue that really isn’t too serious. Watch out for sudden, frenzied and excessive grass eating – that could be a sign of a more serious issue that should be checked by a vet. But if it’s a casual grazing session, you don’t need to stop your dog from doing it.
However, whether you feel you need to stop her from making a habit of this or not, here are a few tips to keep in mind:
Make sure you maintain consistent parasite prevention – both intestinal and external. Your dog can pick up parasites from the ground when grazing. This is especially common in areas where there is fecal residue from other animals, like at the dog park, common ‘potty’ areas for other pets and barn yards. You cannot see the parasites
Feed her higher quality food, and try adding vegetables (cooked or raw, depending on what she likes) to her diet. Vegetables can also be fed as treats, like a piece of carrot, for example.
Give him plenty of exercise and provide some mental exercise with new toys and attention.
Be aware of toxins in your yard and get rid of them to keep your dog from accidentally ingesting them with the grass. That includes fertilizers, weed killers, insecticides, dumped liquids and items that might secrete toxins.
Cribbing, also known as crib biting, aerophagia and wind sucking, is a behavioral situation in which the horse is most likely relieving stress. Historically we thought was that horses cribbed to receive a high or euphoria but, new studies (which vary) suggest that horses crib for stress relief.
What Is Cribbing In Horses?
Cribbing is when a horse puts its front incisors over an edge (such as a board) and pulls back, arching his neck, and sometimes ‘taking in’ air.
A long time ago cribbing was considered an unsoundness. In 1889, a colt that cribbed was returned from Scotland to Belgium (no small journey) because it was deemed unsound as a ‘crib-biter’.
Interestingly, wild horses observed in the wild do not crib. Yep, we ‘caused’ it!
Horse Cribbing Causes
Horse management/maintenance – Long stretches of time with no forage and little to no interactions (boredom and stress).
Possibly genetic predisposition – Some horses may inherit their cribbing behavior; these horses start cribbing at a young age. Thoroughbreds, more than warmbloods and Quarter Horses, and possibly following certain bloodlines (per a Japanese study of 1,500 Thoroughbreds with a 1 percent rate of cribbing, but 7 or 8 percent within certain bloodlines).
Diet – High grain diet/low forage. Especially when this is started at a young age, this seems to increase the frequency of a young horse starting to crib.
Pain – Likely related to confinement after an injury.
Is Cribbing Contagious?
Apparently not since many companions of cribbers do not take up the habit. Companionship can help reduce cribbing and is a suggested management step.
Best Ways To Manage Horse Cribbing
Cribbing has been called a behavioral disorder, and a harmful addiction; however, thoughts on this are changing. Rather than attempting to stop or curb the behavior, letting the horse crib is growing. The following are steps recommended to limit cribbing.
Keeping forage available all the time, which is, after all, what nature intended
Having companionship for the horse – can be a goat, chicken etc.
Reducing surfaces that the horse can ‘latch’ onto are becoming more accepted practices.
Cribbing collars are an option and have been widely used. There are several types, but they do not eliminate the urge, they just make the action of cribbing painful or uncomfortable. Some consider this option tormenting, due to the thought that a horse cribs for stress relief, as opposed to an addiction that they might become ‘weaned from’.
Is Cribbing Damaging to Your Horse?
Cribbing may result in increased colic, gastric ulcers, weight loss, wearing down of the upper incisors (this is a quick way to check to see if a horse cribs), under development of some neck muscles and over development of others, weight loss/eating challenges, damage to fences, barn, etc., and flatulence.
The above problems all fall in the category of damage; however, the degree must be weighed against the value of the horse. For example:
Is this horse a fantastic babysitter for your other horses or for his/her rider?
Is this horse a great performance horse?
Is this horse a great producer?
Is this horse your unicorn?
Does this horse show great promise?
If you look hard enough and you will find a blemish in any horse. Okay, so with cribbing we do not have to look hard, but is it really a reason to turn away?
In the past, multiple horses that led in their sport were cribbers… many major competitions, including the Olympics, would very likely have been different if those horses were discarded for their cribbing.
No one likes to talk about diarrhea, but … there it is. Sitting in the litter box, or maybe not in the litter box, or somewhere between the two. It can’t be ignored. Messy and disgusting – but a sign of something gone wrong in your cat’s digestive tract.
Your cat has diarrhea when he passes watery, strange looking (gray or yellow), foul-smelling bowel movements more frequently than normal. It happens when fecal material moves through the intestine quickly – too quickly to absorb water, nutrients and electrolytes. Your cat, who is usually very finicky about using the litter box, may have uncontrollable accidents around the house or just outside the box, due to the urgency of releasing the bowel movement. Not a pretty situation, and certainly tough on your home and everyone else involved.
Most of the time, diarrhea will either resolve itself or be cured just by changing your cat’s diet (covered later in this article) But sometimes, diarrhea can be a sign of a more serious condition.
Cat Diarrhea Symptoms
Typically, your cat will exhibit some (if not all) of these symptoms:
Soft, watery, frequent bowel movements
Straining with small amounts of soft/sometimes bloody/mucoid stool
Blood or mucus in the feces
Straining to poop
Lack of energy and/or appetite
Staining and soiling of her fur, particularly noticeable on long hair cats, around the back end
Cat Diarrhea Causes
The list of possible causes is long – and some causes are worse than others:
Abrupt change in diet
Eating garbage or food that’s gone bad – or eating non-food material
Inflammation in the gastrointestinal tract
Viral, bacterial or fungal infection
Kidney, pancreatic or liver disease
Immune system abnormality
Hyperactive thyroid gland
Drugs and toxins
When is it serious enough to call the vet?
If your cat has diarrhea for a day or two and is eating and behaving normally otherwise, you probably don’t need to worry about it – it will go away on its own. But if you see any of the following symptoms, they are signs you need to take your cat to the vet immediately:
Your cat is vomiting, or is lethargic, appears to be in pain, has a fever or exhibits any other disturbing symptoms.
The diarrhea contains blood – either bright red or tarry and dark, or is explosive, and watery or is very frequent.
A sign that is not readily visible is that your cat is in danger of dehydration. This is especially important if she’s a kitten, or, very old, has a medical issue that you are aware of, or she has a health problem that would impact her immune system. If the diarrhea has gone on for a few days (2 or 3) then it is likely your cat is indeed dehydrated and should have veterinarian attention.
Any of these symptoms listed above may indicate that you could be looking at a medical emergency, so don’t hesitate to hurry your cat off to your veterinarian. Try to recap the sequence of events in your mind, or, better, on paper, so that you can report the facts to your vet for a quicker, more accurate diagnosis.
And STOP YOURSELF if you’re tempted to give your cat human medications to stem the tide of diarrhea. Over-the-counter medications for humans are much stronger than anything you’d want to give your cat and can be harmful to your kitty. For example, aspirin, acetaminophen and ibuprofen are extremely toxic to cats. The human formulation of Imodium was not meant for cats, even in smaller doses!
Your vet will perform a complete physical exam on your cat, including diagnostic blood tests, electrolyte panels and urinalysis. If he/she thinks your cat swallowed something to cause the problem, an X-ray may be in order. And you’ll most likely need to bring in a sample of the feces to check for various infections and parasites (an easy way to accomplish this is to take a plastic bag, put your hand around the outside to push it inside out, then grab the feces with the bag and ‘pull’ the edges of the bag back over the feces (like starting with the bag inside out and pull it back to outside out
One of the biggest concerns for your cat will be loss of fluid, resulting in dehydration, especially if your cat has also been vomiting. If it’s really serious, the vet may administer intravenous or subcutaneous fluids (fluids that are administered under the skin).
How can I stop or prevent cat diarrhea from happening?
It’s always a good idea to “follow the doctor’s orders” when it comes to treating your cat. After diagnosing the cause of the diarrhea, the vet may prescribe medications, de-wormers and other therapies to relieve the problem, so be sure to read the dosing instructions carefully.
Some other things the vet may recommend:
For adult cats who are otherwise healthy, simplify your cat’s diet. Don’t give him treats or scraps from the dinner table, but stick with nutritional cat food that feeds the good bacteria found in your cat’s intestine.
Veterinarians have changed from saying “withhold food for 24 hours” to “don’t withhold food” – cat anorexia can lead to other major problems. Instead, in some cases, you might want to switch to a bland diet such as boiled rice or pasta with boiled skinless chicken, potatoes, turkey, low fat cottage cheese or yoghurt, and even meat-based baby foods. Also, making meals smaller is a great option to provide nutrients without ‘overloading’ your cat’s system. Feed smaller amounts more frequently but monitor her physical acceptance of the food. So if she can tolerate her usual feedings of twice a day broken down to four times a day, for example, that may help her system settle and heal while still consuming appropriate nutrients.
If you recently changed your cat’s diet before she started with the diarrhea, go back to what you were previously feeding her to see if that helps. It’s possible something in the new food disagreed with her.
Make sure your cat has plenty of fresh water available, at all times. Adding another bowl of water with diluted chicken or beef broth may encourage your cat to drink more. Hydration is so important to overall health! Warm water added to canned cat food is another tip. Water and electrolytes are vital to your cat’s health, so you might need to get creative in providing sources.
If you have household guests coming you may want to put an additional litter box and fresh water options in the area where she is most comfortable, in addition to the usual locations. Additional household activity can upset your cat’s normal routine which can upset her system. Don’t let the only litter-box options be in an area where your cat has to face the increased activity since this may cause too much stress for her.
Probiotics may be helpful, but you should make sure the vet is okay with this. If you’re given the go-ahead, pick a probiotic made by a reputable company that’s specifically formulated for use in cats.
Monitor your cat. If you don’t see improvement after two or three days, or if your cat isn’t drinking water or still acts sick, take her back to the vet.
Your dog’s paws are truly amazing. Like a great pair of running shoes, they can take your dog through all kinds of conditions, from the blistering heat of summer sidewalks to the icy roads of winter. The paw pads provide support, enhance traction and act as shock absorbers for your dog’s bones and joints. They also contain scent and sweat glands that enable him to mark his territory.
But, unlike running shoes, your dog’s paws need some TLC to ensure they don’t get dry, cracked, blistered or infected. And it’s not just cold or hot weather that can affect your dog’s paws.
Causes of Cracked Dog Paws
Your dog may end up limping because he stepped on a thorn or sharp object, ran around for a long time on a rough surface, or otherwise cut or scraped his paws. Depending on the severity of the injury, you may need to make a quick trip to your vet.
Dogs who have chronically irritated feet may be suffering from allergies to pollen, yeast, food ingredients, mold or mites. This makes the feet itchy, and your dog will lick and chew her paws until the skin becomes red and infected. To arrest this issue, you will need to get to the source of the allergy and find a way to eliminate or reduce your dog’s exposure to it.
Dogs with hormonal imbalances or autoimmune disease may have a predisposition to get cracked, bleeding or swollen paws because their bodies don’t fight off foreign cells as well, and they have a limited ability to generate repair and replacement of cells in the paws. (Paw cells must have a good blood supply and be able to replace cells at a high rate in order to be healthy). Either of these conditions require veterinary care to diagnose and treat.
How can I treat cracked, dry or bleeding paws?
If your dog’s paw pads have minor cracks (small fissures or cracks in the paw pads) or they seem dry, but she’s not limping or bleeding, you can treat these at home yourself. First, make sure they’re clean. Then use a gentle but potent anti-bacterial product like Banixx Pet Care spray – just spray it on and let it dry. This is an especially good solution, as it sets up a hostile environment for any bacteria that loves to set up house in your dog’s cracked paws.
This may be followed by an application of Banixx Wound Care Cream that serves not only as another gentle antimicrobial layer but contains moisturizing marine collagen and aloe to rejuvenate and replenish the paw tissue. This may be re-applied on a regular basis until the cracks are gone.
If things have gone to the next level and the cracks in the paw pads are bleeding or you see open wounds, then it’s definitely time to get them looked at by a veterinarian. Don’t let things deteriorate to the point where you see that your dog’s paw pads are bleeding more heavily, there are missing sections, or you notice a terrible smell. If this happens, infection may have set in, and the vet may need to prescribe an expensive medication and even provide a (dreaded) cone to ensure your dog doesn’t lick her paws.
Banixx Pet Care spray and Banixx Wound Care Cream can be part of the package that helps restore the pads to good health, and rest assured, these can be applied in conjunction with any medication that your Vet prescribes.
How can I prevent dry cracked dog paws?
If your dog is licking or chewing his paws, that’s one sign that there may be an injury or irritant. Check the paws, make sure there’s no foreign body in there, and then use Banixx Pet Care to soothe irritation and aid in the recovery process. The sooner you notice an issue and start working to alleviate it, the less chance of infection – so daily monitoring of your dog’s feet is a great habit to get into.
Practice good grooming
Groom your dog’s paws on a regular basis by keeping the nails clipped and hair trimmed between the paw pads to prevent matting (which can be another source of irritation to the paw pads). Check regularly (even after every walk) for debris like pebbles and grass/grass seeds that can get caught in your dog’s paw pads. Clean out anything you find by putting your dog’s paw in a bowl of warm water to dislodge it, or using tweezers.
Take note of seasonal weather changes
Being too cold or too hot can cause the paw pads to crack, blister, chap and bleed. You can use boots in both summer and winter, though not all dogs will accept wearing them. In winter, check her paws after walks out in the snow and ice, and wipe them down afterward with a moisturizing product like Banixx.
Road salt can get into any paw cracks and cause intense pain and/or infection, something you definitely want to avoid. Then again, during summer months, try not to walk her during the hottest part of the day, and try to find grass to walk on, rather hot pavement, rocky ground or hot sand. It’s important to note that when the outside air temperature is only 77 degrees, hot asphalt, in the sun, has been measured as high as 125 degrees.
Moreover, you can fry and egg at 131 degrees!! So, in summer, just imagine how your dog feels as you drag him along to the farmers market or outdoor festival being held on asphalt. During these more intense months, whether it’s a cold intensity or hot, when you come in from your walk, check the paws and wipe them down.
Just like with humans, moisturizing can prevent painful cracks and bleeding. Using Banixx Wound Care Cream on a regular basis will keep those pads soft and healthy. Just apply it to the paw pads and massage it gently between the paw pads, up in between each toe and the back of the paw. It’s important your dog not lick off the Banixx, as the longer it stays in contact with the dog’s paw, the more effective it is – so after applying, try distracting her with a treat, a game or a toy.
Remember, most problems with cracked or dry dog paws can be handled by you at home – but make sure you consult with your veterinarian if you notice deep cracks with excessive bleeding or oozing, crusting, or an obvious injury like a bleeding cut or missing pad. And if you suspect that allergies or health issues are the cause of your dog’s sore paws, you’ll need to visit the vet to get to the bottom of it.
Healthy dogs need healthy feet. Take care of them as you would your own.
Yes! Just like a teenager, a dog can get canine acne, an inflammatory condition that affects her lips and the skin of her muzzle. In a mild case, it’s a benign disorder that comes on from 5-8 months of age and is usually gone by the time a dog reaches 1 year old. You’ll see red bumps, blackheads or pimples. In bad cases, your dog will suffer from scabs, bleeding wounds and swelling. And just like with a teenager, if the acne is left untreated, permanent scarring can result.
The acne occurs when hair follicles become irritated. It can cause pain and itching. If your dog scratches the acne, it can lead to a bacterial or fungal infection.
Acne is seen more often in dogs with short coats; the most commonly affected breeds include Boxers, Doberman Pinschers, Bulldogs, Mastiffs, Weimaraners, German Shorthaired Pointers, and Rottweilers, though other breeds can also get canine acne.
What Causes Dog Acne?
Dog skin pimples can be caused by several things:
Allergy to parasites like fleas and mites
Food or environmental allergies (pollen, mold, dust)
Bacterial and fungal infections
Genetics (see breeds above)
Trauma to the skin of the chin or muzzle
Some dogs have issues with plastic bowls.Switch to stainless steel.
What Should I Do About My Dog’s Pimples?
First, get it diagnosed by a vet. You want to make sure that it really is canine acne rather than fatty tumors, benign cysts, ringworm or more serious conditions like mange or skin cancer. Your vet will also be able to give you more insight into the cause of the pimples – whether it’s an allergy or other skin disorder. A bacterial culture can identify the right type of antibiotic for treatment if appropriate.
In most cases, dog acne is treated simply with topical benzoyl peroxide, which helps flush out the hair follicles and reduce bacterial contamination.However, be careful to use the benzoyl peroxide recommended by your veterinarian – do not substitute the benzoyl peroxide found over-the-counter for humans, which is much stronger than what you should use on your dog.
In more severe cases, or if an infection has resulted because of the trauma caused by scratching, your vet may recommend steroids or antibiotics.
The One Thing You Should NOT Do To Canine Acne
Is “pop” the pimples! Resist the temptation! It will just increase the likelihood that the hair follicles will rupture and increase the inflammation and infection.
Dog Acne Treatment Options
Find ways to limit the allergies that could be causing the acne. If it’s a food or environmental allergy, managing the situation can help decrease the acne. This is more simply said than done.Talk with your vet and…do your own research.
Treat the “itch” by using Banixx Pet Care. When your dog scratches at those pimples, he causes trauma to the sensitive skin and increases the chances a bacterial infection will make things worse. Banixx soothes the itch and, because of its anti-bacterial properties, makes it almost impossible for a bacterial infection to live and grow. And, because it has no scent, does not sting and is okay to use around the eyes, applying Banixx is easy and safe.
Ringworm is highly infectious – so if your cat has contracted ringworm, you’ll need to take steps immediately to quarantine her to stop it from spreading throughout your household.
Yes, the skin fungus known as ringworm can be transmitted between animals and humans – so your family members and other animals are at risk of catching it. For information on the condition – what it is, what it looks like, and how to treat it, click here.
How Serious Is Ringworm?
Most healthy cats will be able to self-cure after a period of time (typically 3-5 months). But they can be cured much faster with proper care and medication.
AND – you don’t want the infection to spread to humans and your other pets, so taking aggressive action to stop the spread of ringworm is very important.
Ringworm is more common in kittens and sometimes older cats, both of whom have weaker immune systems and have trouble fighting off this infection. Less healthy, feral cats are also susceptible for the same reasons.
How Long Is A Cat Contagious?
If you aggressively treat the infection and take steps to prevent re-infection, your cat will be contagious for about 3 weeks. Length of time depends on the overall health of your cat at the outset. The healthier your cat, the quicker will be his response time to treatment. Veterinarians recommend that you consider your cat contagious until there have been two consecutive negative fungal cultures (done by your vet) that demonstrate that the infection is gone.
Why Is A Quarantine Necessary?
Ringworm is spread via invisible fungal spores. These abound once your cat has fully-fledged ringworm, and the spores need to be eliminated to prevent re-infection and to protect your other animals and YOU.
So while cat ringworm can be treated on an out-patient basis with anti-fungal medications, isolating your cat is a key part of the treatment in order to decrease the likelihood of spreading the infection.
How Long Should Your Cat Be Quarantined?
That depends on the individual cat’s response to treatment and his overall health. Treatment usually lasts about 5-6 weeks, although this time period can be longer for some cats. In terms of quarantine, most cats that are being treated aggressively only need to be isolated from 2-4 weeks. You will be the best judge of your cat’s progress (by visually seeing, or not seeing, ringworm outbreaks). But you’ll need to continue getting ringworm cultures periodically to make sure your cat is no longer infected.
Tips For Getting Rid of Ringworm
Those ringworm spores are pesky and persistent. While they need to be on skin to live, they can lie dormant in the environment and can be viable for years if they’re not killed or removed. That’s why it’s so important to de-contaminate the environment once you’ve detected the ringworm infection. Following are some tips:
Use a disinfectant cleaner to wipe down all surfaces. Spray the cleaner and let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe the area clean. Apple cider vinegar or bleach, depending on what surface you are treating, are excellent for this. Note: Lysol is NOT pet friendly.
If you can afford it, hire professional steam-cleaners to come in and clean carpets, etc. Otherwise, use carpet shampoo, let it sit, and then vacuum.
Wash all food and water bowls with disinfectant soap, and don’t let your animals share them.
Vacuum and clean all surfaces every few days. Dispose of the vacuum bags after use because they may harbor fungal spores.
Get rid of all the cleaning cloths after use or immediately wash in a bleach solution.
If appropriate, throw away all items you think may be infected and cannot be cleaned.
Wash all towels, bedding and clothing twice with bleach.
Wash your hands immediately (and tell everyone in your family, especially children, to do the same) after touching or petting your animals or handling their toys or grooming equipment. It’s a good idea to wear disposable gloves when cleaning the kitty litter or picking up the cat’s waste if outside.
Wear separate clothing when coming into contact with infected animals, and wash the clothing immediately in hot water, using the highest setting on your dryer to dry them. Wear rubber footwear so you don’t pick up the ringworm spores and spread them to other surfaces.
Don’t use the same brush to groom several cats. Buy plastic ones and wash them in hot water and disinfectant soap after each use.
As a key to preventing the spread of ringworm in your household, bathe all your cats, kittens and other pets (even if they don’t show any symptoms of ringworm) using medicated shampoo.
Use Banixx to Treat Ringworm
As a potent anti-fungal treatment, Banixx Pet Care is a powerful way to help cats, kittens and other animal get rid of the dreaded ringworm fungus. To use it, simply soak a cotton ball with Banixx and apply it to affected area (wear disposable gloves). This may be done two to three times daily during the ringworm infection.
Banixx Medicated Shampoo can be used for all your animals to control and prevent the spread of ringworm. It’s gentle yet highly effective. Banixx will not dry out the skin, and it doesn’t burn or have an offensive odor to frighten your cat.
Not only do the anti-fungal properties in Banixx products ensure that the ringworm cannot survive, but Banixx also provides soothing relief from itching and pain, is safe to use around the eyes, and contains no toxins or steroids.
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals says that household chemicals are the 6th leading cause of poisoning (toxicosis) in pets. These chemicals include many traditional household cleaning products that you most likely have in your home.
So, whether you like your house to be spotless (good luck with that when you have cats, dogs or other indoor pets!), or if you only do a good cleaning once a month, you need to be aware that there are risks associated with your household cleaners.
Poisoning is one potential result from household cleaners. Another important factor is allergies. Dogs and cats, as well as other pets, can have allergic reactions to environmental factors – and their lives can be made miserable until you find what those specific factors are.
How to tell if your dog or cat has been poisoned
Many household cleaners are corrosive or caustic if they spill on or otherwise come in contact with a dog or cat’s fur or skin – and also internally, if those chemicals are ingested. These are some signs to look for:
Raw, red skin
Rash or blistering of the skin
Pawing at the mouth or eyes
Tearing of the eyes, nasal discharge
Breathing problems for asthmatic animals from strong fumes
Lack of appetite, lethargy
Seizures, vomiting, diarrhea
Of course, many of these symptoms can also arise from other causes, so a vet visit will be in order no matter what. But if you KNOW that your pet has come in contact with a household cleaner, call the ASPCA hotline (see below) or your local small animal emergency clinic (if there is one) for advice, and then get to the vet as soon as possible before the toxins can have a permanent (or even fatal) impact.
Which cleaners to watch out for
While most cleaning products can be used safely in your home as long as you follow the label recommendations, the best rule of thumb is: If it can adversely affect your family members, it can also affect your pets, so take the same precautions to protect them.
All traditional cleaning products contain chemicals like bleach, ammonia, chlorine, formaldehyde, phenol and isopropyl alcohol. These can ALL be harmful to your cats and dogs.
Beware of these products
Floor cleaners (dogs may lick the floor, especially if there’s a treat lying there or food drops; cats may lie on the floor and then groom themselves thereby ingesting some of the floor cleaner, dogs definitely lie on the floor so they will inadvertently pick up toxic particles, etc.).
Laundry detergents leave a residue behind on clothes and bedding (even if you do an “extra rinse.”)
Toilet bowl cleaners and fresheners (does your dog drink out of the toilet?). Watch out for cleaners and freshners that clip to the edge of the toilet or are put in the back of the tank. Definitely a risk to your dog or cat with this one.
Counter cleaners and all-purpose cleaners for use in the kitchen, bathroom and other places can be harmful, especially if your cat or dog likes to “counter surf.”
Carpet fresheners may not be as harmful as other cleaners, but if your cat or dog gets the cleaner on his paws (before you vacuum it up), clean it off immediately. You don’t want them licking it off, or developing a skin irritation on their paws.
Air fresheners aren’t really cleaning products, but they add to the clean smell in your home. Sprays, candles and plug-ins can cause problems for animals with allergies.
Bleach can affect your pets in many ways – via ingestion, touching the skin, even breathing the fumes.
Other cleaners include oven cleaners, furniture polish, window cleaners, drain uncloggers, etc. Any of these, when sprayed, licked, spilled or otherwise coming in contact with your dog or cat, can have toxic and serious effects.
Safe cleaning alternatives
Most cleaning products can be used in your home as long as you follow the directions on the package and keep them out of reach of your animals. But if you’re looking for more pet-friendly alternatives (or if you must switch to greener solutions because of allergies), you can try:
Many people use apple cider vinegar to clean their homes, using a 1 cup to 1 gallon ratio of vinegar to water. There are also a number of commercially-produced, environmentally-safe cleaners that use vinegar as their base.
For windows and mirrors, try a mixture of lemon juice and water, plus a lint-free cloth.
Baking soda can be mixed with water and is good for areas where you need to scrub, like the kitchen sink or the toilet.
Plant-based products don’t leave the toxic residue that can be found in traditional cleaners.
Enzymatic cleaners can be non-toxic but still effective in removing pet stains.
If you have a clogged sink or tub, try pouring a half cup of baking soda in the drain, followed by two cups of boiling water. If you still need more cleaning power, follow the baking soda with a half cup of vinegar, and close or cover the drain while the mixture works on the clog. Flush with a gallon of boiling water.
If your pet is allergic
If you’re trying to eliminate toxins from your home because your dog or cat is suffering from environmental allergies, one key is to limit her exposure to all environmental pollutants in your home. It seems like a huge and daunting task, but here are a few tips to make it manageable:
Where does your dog or cat spend most of her time? Focus first on eliminating toxins in those areas.
Use green, non-toxic cleaners on bedding (and no fabric softeners, which contain detergents that can cause reactions).
If your pets spend a lot of time on the floor (and which pets don’t?), change to a non-toxic floor cleaner.
To find out which product(s) trigger your cat or dog’s allergies, change out your household cleaners one at a time.
What to do if you think your pet has been exposed to poisonous substances
If you suspect your pet has been exposed to any poisonous substances, contact your veterinarian or call the Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) hotline at (888) 426-4435 immediately. These experts are available 24/7/365 and will give you the advice you need in your emergency situation.
To prevent accidental poisoning, do these two things:
When you’re in the process of cleaning, keep your pets away from the area just as you would keep small children out of the area.
ALWAYS lock your dangerous cleaning chemicals away in a place where your pets (and your children) cannot get into them.
Everyone sneezes from time to time, including your cat and other pets. It’s the body’s explosive (and usually effective) response to ridding itself of things that are irritating your pet’s nasal passage.
But if you’ve noticed that your cat is sneezing a LOT – back-to-back sneezing fits, throughout the day, every day. Is this something to worry about?
Sneezing and Nasal Discharge
If your cat is sneezing and/or has a discharge from her nose, it could be due to many reasons:
a tickle in the nose
a respiratory infection
an allergy or a tumor (see below).
The discharge from your cat’s nose may look clear, cloudy or yellow/green, and could even be a little bloody. Blood in the nasal discharge is to be taken seriously since it could indicate a sign of an infection, an injury, or even a bleeding disorder or tumor.
Sometimes these sneezing episodes and/or nasal discharge are accompanied by other symptoms that indicate a more serious nasal or sinus disease. Look for the following in your kitty:
Rubs or paws at her face
Runs a fever
Bleeds from the nose
Has a nasty smell coming from her nose or mouth
Breathes loudly, wheezes or coughs
Has loss of appetite
Has signs of diarrhea
If you think any of these symptoms seem severe or happen frequently on a recurring basis, take your cat to the vet because it may be a condition that requires professional treatment.Take the time to notate any problems that you have observed including frequency, timing etc so that you can provide your vet with as much information as possible.Cats are stoic creatures hence your cat may be quite sick before you realize it;a quick trip to consult with your vet is always a good idea in order to stay ahead of any potential problems.
Reasons Why Your Cat Might Be Sneezing
Nasal Passage Problems
Something is blocking and/or tickling your cat’s nasal passage. It could be a blade of grass or a hair, or something more substantial. Like all animals, cats will reflexively sneeze to try to dislodge the blockage.
Your cat has picked up a respiratory infection. It’s most often a viral infection (feline herpes virus and feline calicivirus are the most common), aka a “cat cold.” In addition to sneezing, your feline friend may also cough or have some tears from his eyes – these symptoms are similar to those that we humans feel and exhibit. Sometimes it’s a fungal infection that causes inflammation in the nasal passage. These infections are more common in young cats, especially in those coming from animal shelters where crowded conditions create problems, just as they do with humans who live under crowded circumstances. Many of these infections can be prevented with early and complete vaccinations (but see # 5 below).
Irritants and Allergies
Your cat has inhaled an irritant or something that he’s allergic to. If the only symptom you notice is that your cat is sneezing, it may be an allergy that’s irritating the nasal passages (note that allergies also often result in itchy skin). Here are some things that might be causing the sneezing:
Cleaning agents (see our blog on household cleaners here)
If you think your cat may be sneezing due to allergies, use the sneezing episodes to help pinpoint the allergen. For example, does she sneeze more after she uses the litter box or after you smoke a cigarette? Is she atchoo-ing more after you’ve cleaned the house or lit the romantic candles or applied perfume? Since cat noses are only a few inches off the ground/floor, consider that anything that you apply to the floor, carpet etc…will be in close contact with your cat’s nose and hence affect her respiratory system. Carefully observing her behavior may give you excellent clues.
Your cat may be having trouble with her teeth. Sometimes cats (especially older kitties) may suffer from dental disease (especially root infections), resulting in inflammation and drainage into the sinuses. This may cause sneezing and dental issues are not uncommon to cats. This is a case for the vet, as it won’t cure itself. Your cat’s breath may be a clue here since dental decay is always accompanied by an unpleasant odor.Try to watch your cat while she is eating, does her eating function appear normal or does she exhibit pain in eating her food or approach her bowl with trepidation and hesitation?
Your cat may be reacting to a vaccine.If your cat has received a vaccine to prevent respiratory infections, she may sneeze a lot for a few days afterward. This should only last for a few days and goes away without treatment. Again, if problems persist, do not hesitate to return to your vet to get it checked out.
Other Potential Issues
Miscellaneous other causes of excessive sneezing can include mucus irritation, excess nasal secretion, nasal polyps or tumors, pneumonia, gastrointestinal disease, and mites found in the nasal cavities. This is a tougher scenario and will take some dedication and time to diagnose and treat.
When To Go To The Veterinarian
It’s always a good idea to call the vet if:
Your cat sneezes often or continuously
The sneezing seems to be chronic
You see blood in the nasal discharge
You see any additional symptoms such as the ones listed above
The vet will do the tests and get the right diagnosis for the cause of your kitty’s sneezing fits. Depending on the diagnosis, the vet will be able to prescribe antibiotics, nasal decongestants and antihistamines, fluids or steroids if needed, as well as make great suggestions on how to help your cat feel more comfortable, provide nutritional support, and enhance her immune system to prevent recurrences in the future.